The method I use has worked successfully on my tanks, so far without fail. But, it is by no means gospel, and their several other methods that work also. I like this method because it allows a person with enough light and CO2 to grow most any plant. I also like this method because it does not require frequent testing and adjusting. But, I do suggest you get a test kit for NO3, PO4, KH, PH, and GH. Because everyones tanks use nutrients at different rates, testing in the beginning is a good idea to refine your fertilizer regimem. Also, testing is really good learning tool. You can test when algae starts to pop up to see what is out of whack. Also, test when things are really growing well to see what levels the plants really like.
The system I use is based on the Estimative Index by Tom Barr. It is based on the fact that if you provide all the nutrients the plants can possibly use in slight excess you will have healthy plants and no algae. This has been tested many times to be true, and I have tested it myself on the 20 gallon I brought to the show. It works best on tanks with high CO2 levels and high light, but it also works on non-co2 tanks equally well, you just have to cut down on the amounts or the frequency of dosing. Within reason, the only time you get algae is when a certain nutrient drops too low. I have tested this to be true also.
This system is also predicated on frequent large water changes, 50% per week, to correct any dosing errors, and to prevent any excess nutrient build-up. When first starting out it is best to test just before your water change to see if your dosing puts you into the high end of your target ranges. This system also allows for a considerable amount of error in dosing as long as nothing drops too low. This is also why I like this system.
Your plants need the following in order of importance: NO3, PO4, K, Carbon(CO2), Calcium &Magnesium, Iron and the other micro nutrients.
Here is what I and others have found to be good target levels:
CO2: 25-40 ppm(but no higher than 40ppm)
NO3: 10-30 ppm
PO4: 1.0 - 3.0 ppm(or higher if all others are in order)
K: 10-30 ppm
Fe: .2 - .5 ppm(or higher if all others are in order)
GH(Ca/Mg): minimum 3 degrees (5-10 work really well)
The fertilizers I sent you are the following:
KNO3: Mainly for adding NO3(Nitrate), but also adds a fair amount of K(Potassium)
KH2PO4: Mainly adds PO4(Phosphate), but also adds a little K(Potassium)
K2SO4: used just for Potassium. But, at first we are not going to use this because hopefully we will be able to add enough of the first two to not have to add any of this. But, we will see......
O.K. now how do we get to the levels mentioned above in your tank? Lets go through each nutreint individually.
Carbon(CO2): This is your yeast CO2 mixture. I am assuming you know how to make the CO2 mixture and put in the lines, etc. If not post here and let us know.
You do not "need" a CO2 reactor. But, you do need a way to mix the CO2 into the water. Reactors in general are the most efficent way of mixing the CO2. But, for now if you have a HOB power filter just shove the CO2 line into the intake strainer of the filter. If you have a Magnum Canister that works really well the same way. If you have a powerhead do the same thing. The easiest way to estimate your CO2 level is to test your PH and KH after the CO2 has been running and consult the kh, ph, CO2 relationship chart on this page:
http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/science-of-fertilizing/2427-faq-new-co2-charts-etc.html
Optimumly, you want a number higher than 20, but no higher than 40. Let me know if you have questions about that. Sometimes the relationship does not apply properly, like in my case. But, for most people it does, so we will assume it does until we think otherwise.
Macro nutrients, don't bother with the math on how these amounts get you too the levels you need, its a whole bunch of confusing math, chemistry and plant physiology based on maximum uptake rates of plants, molecular weights, etc. Just use this as a starting point and test before your weekly water changes and adjust as you need.
For your 55 gal tank, Beth try this:
KNO3(Nitrate&K): 1/2-3/4 tsp every other day or 3 times per week depending on fish load. 1/2 tsp if you have a lot of fish.
KH2PO4(PO4&K): 1/8 tsp at the same time as the KNO3.
Iron(Fe) and other micros: Use a quality micro nutrient fertilizer like Flourish, Tropica Master Grow, or CSM+B. Dose 10 mls on the opposite days as the KNO3 and KH2PO4. If you must dose on the same days make sure you have a 2 hour gap between them. Otherwise the Iron will bind to the phosphate making them both useless.
Ca/Mg Test your GH, if it is 4 or above you are probably fine.
There are two basic ways to dose the KNO3, KH2PO4, and K2SO4, either dry right into the tank or make a stock solution and dose the liquid. If you dose dry it is best to add them into a HOB filter and let that mix it or mix the ferts in a little tank water before adding.
Personally, I make a stock solution and dose them individually as a liquid. I think it is more precise and easier to adjust the amounts especially on my small tanks.
To make the stock solution you will need:
1. A container with mls marked onit to make the solution in. I like ones with wide mouths. There are some really nice ones for $.85 at Ax-man that hold 400 mls or Target has some translucent little water bottles that hold 500 mls they sold in the "dollar spot".
2. measuring spoons to measure the ferts.
3. Something that has milliter markings to dose with. I use a small Turkey baster. If you make a stronger solution the childrens medicine droppers work well.
4. Some distilled or RO water.
To make the solution:
Determine the volume of the solution you want to make and how much you want to dose each time. 200 mls of solution is a good place to start, and I shoot for 10 mls dosing becasue it is a nice mark on the turkey baster I use to dose. At 10 mls per dose you will get 20 doses out of 200 mls. So, then you multiply the amount you want to dose each time by 20 and add that to the 200 mls of water.
For your 55 gallon tank, Beth:
10 - 15 tsp KNO3 in 200 mls water
2 and 1/2 tsp KH2PO4 in 200 mls water
Then just dose 10mls of each every other day or three times a week. Personally, its easier for me to dose macros on the odd days and Iron and micros on even days. This is because I have multiple tanks to dose and I do not change the water on the same day on all tanks. But, it also works to dose Macros say Mon, Wed, Fri and Micros Tues, Thurs, Sat., and skip Sunday, etc.
Feel free to adjust your volumes and dosing amounts to fit your container, and dosing device.
From here Beth, Setup your Co2, remember to switch out one bottle every week in rotation. Mix up your ferts and get back to us with the following information from your testing:
Before you start dosing and before CO2 has been running:
1. PH
2. KH
3. GH
4. NO3
5. PO4
Then after CO2 has been running for 2 days:
1. PH
2. KH
Then after one week of dosing before your water change:
1. PH
2. KH
3. NO3
4. PO4
This seems like a lot of work and testing at first, and it kind of is. But, its really not much more than we do for our fish. Quickly the dosing becomes second nature, like feeding your fish, but it takes a lot less time than feeding your fish. The testing will help you refine your dosing so that you will no longer have to test. I have not tested anything in several months. Take note of what your plants look like or what algaes are popping up when things are not optimum and then test to check whats out of line. Then, in the future you will be able to diagnose based on sight. Some people even refine there dosing down so well that they do not need such frequent water changes. I do the weekly water changes because it takes me less than 30 minutes and the fish appreciate it. I do not want to have be that precise either. It takes the fun out of it for me. |
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